/Projects/IR light dimmer v1

This is a very simple IR light dimmer that you will wish to have sooner or later, especially those who are lazy enough to get up and turn off the lights. There are two versions of PCB for two sizes of capacitors, so PCBs are: 32.5 x 26.5mm and 28.5 x 27mm.
You can download the project files at the bottom of this page by clicking on red "download" button.


Features of current beta version of firmware:

- Soft start (gradually turning on the light bulb)
- Soft down (gradually turning off the light bulb)
- Learning IR codes from RC5 and NEC remotes
- Dimming in 10 levels by using only IR remote
- Previous dimm-level remembering when operating with remote
- Sleep timer in duration of 1.6min for 60Hz version and 2min for 50Hz version
- ON/OFF control with wall pushbutton

Dimmer is connected to existing home wiring installation inside a junction box, which is usually located above the light switch. In order to properly connect the dimmer to installation one should follow the schematics provided for that purpose. If connected differently there is a very big chance of some freaky side effects such as burned PIC microcontroller, serious fire and who knows what else.

Learning remote control IR codes (programming procedure)
After connecting dimmer to installation you must program the remote control buttons. Here is how to do that:

1. Hold the wall pushbutton for 11 sec so that dimmer can enter programming mode. After those 11 sec, LED will start to blink fast, and light will dimm to third (3.) level. Now you have 11 sec to complete the programming sequence:
2. Press the first button on your remote that will increase light level or turn on the light when it is turned off (ON/UP)
3. Press the second button on your remote that will be used to decrease the light level (DOWN)
4. Press the third button that will be used for activating/deactivating sleep mode (SLEEP)
5. Finally, press the fourth button that will be used to turn off light completely (OFF)

During programming, both the light bulb and LED will blink to confirm IR code reception. If your remote control does not have all 4 buttons that you can use, you can repeat previous button but that will cancel out some features. For example, if your remote has only two buttons (A and B), and if during programming you press: A A A B, that means that key A will be used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to completely turn off the light. If you choose combination A B B B, it means that the key A will be again used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to decrease light level (it will also turn the light off completely in 10 button presses - until zero level).
Programming notice: If during programming, you notice that LED blinks even when you don't press any buttons on your remote control, it is probably because you used TSOP11xx instead of TSOP17xx receiver module. In that case, you will probably not be able to program your dimmer properly.
If you are not satisfied with your choice of remote controller buttons, you can repeat the learning procedure as much as you like.
If you are planning to use your TV's remote controller, you should probably choose those teletext buttons: red, green, yellow and blue to avoid, for example, switching channels when operating the dimmer.

Sleep timer
Sleep timer can be activated by a bit longer wall-pushbutton press, more than 1.8 sec to be precise, or by pressing the appropriate button on the remote controller. Sleep timer cancellation is accomplished just like the activation. It is possible to increase/decrease the light level when sleep timer is active. Dimmer will automatically set the light level to six (6) when entering the sleep mode, but only if previous level was greater than 6.


Important notice: This device is connected to mains power line, so it requires a lot of respect. If you are not sure in what you are doing, you better leave the installation part to the experienced electrician.

Dimmer in operation:

Note: Dimmer works better with TIC206 rather than TIC216!

Author (sent by): Trax

Download counter: 54,090

Rating: (2.99, votes 7227)


Date: 07-02-2009

Lokalna verzija ove stranice: IR dimmer svjetla v1


Bookmark and Share Comments (387)

comment [237]

E da, ja sam ugradio osigurac od 2.5 ampera, to bi bilo nekih 500 wati po trijaku, ali osigurac ostane netaknut a trijak rikne....To je pretezno problem sa svim slicnim uredjajima sa trijakom....I ovim obicnim regulatorima crkne trijak za relativno kratko vreme...Al ne znam sta da im radim....Hvala ti za bezuslovno pruzenu pomoc....
IP: n/a

comment [236]

Izvini Trax na smaranju, samo me interesuje da li postoji neki nacin zastite trijaka od crkavanja u slucaju kad pregori sijalica...? Skoro svaki put kad mi crkne sijalica, ja moram da menjam trijak...Moze li se iskombinovati sa nekom prigusnicom ili varistorima...Bilo sta...?!
IP: n/a

comment [235]

Projekat je čista desetka. Hvala autoru što je podjelio svoje znanje sa svima nama.

comment [234]

Can i buy all parts from you!?

comment [233]

hi there , i live in quebec and it does work well now without flickering, i did have problem at first , i used a nte5608 triac and it couldn't trig, so i removed de 820 ohm resistor and put a jumper instead . and i used a tsop38238 instead of a tsop1736 , everything is working 120volt / 60hz if you really like homemade i made my 8button ir remote with a pic16f628 http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/IR_Chips.htm

comment [232]

C2 je filter za napajanje, pa ako uredjaj bude pravio cudne probleme onda ga išak zalemi.
IP: n/a

comment [231]

Zna li neko za sta sluzi kondenzator C2 (100nF), posto se cini da uredjaj radi normalno i bez njega?

comment [230]

Sve komponente su ispravne. Problem je bio zbog prebliskih spojeva.

comment [229]

Mozda su ti C2, C3 ili C4 neispravni. Mislim da mozes probati sa 6.2V zenerkom, sve ce biti na nekoj granici ali bi trebalo da radi. Opet, mislim da su ti neke komponente u kvaru - moras da otkrijes koje (ili koja).
IP: n/a

comment [228]

Trax, hvala na odgovoru, ali vec koristim TIC206 i zener diodu 5,6V. Napon iznosi nesto ispod 4,5V (oko 4,45V). Titranje se javlja na 6. ili 7. nivou i tada naglo oslabi jacina svjetla (nivoi 8, 9 i 10 su ok). Na 3. nivou svjetlo je jace od 4.-og i 5.-og nivoa. Sve komponente su kao sa sheme, osim C1. Probao sam sa kondenzatorima C1 od 0,33uF i 0,47 uF i nije neka razlika (trazeni kondenzator od 0,39uF nisam nigdje nasao da postoji). Smijem li koristiti zener diodu od 6,2V?

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