This is a very simple IR light dimmer that you will wish to have sooner or later, especially those who are lazy enough to get up and turn off the lights. There are two versions of PCB for two sizes of capacitors, so PCBs are: 32.5 x 26.5mm and 28.5 x 27mm.
You can download the project files at the bottom of this page by clicking on red "download" button.
Features of current beta version of firmware:
- Soft start (gradually turning on the light bulb)
- Soft down (gradually turning off the light bulb)
- Learning IR codes from RC5 and NEC remotes
- Dimming in 10 levels by using only IR remote
- Previous dimm-level remembering when operating with remote
- Sleep timer in duration of 1.6min for 60Hz version and 2min for 50Hz version
- ON/OFF control with wall pushbutton
Dimmer is connected to existing home wiring installation inside a junction box, which is usually located above the light switch. In order to properly connect the dimmer to installation one should follow the schematics provided for that purpose. If connected differently there is a very big chance of some freaky side effects such as burned PIC microcontroller, serious fire and who knows what else.
Learning remote control IR codes (programming procedure)
After connecting dimmer to installation you must program the remote control buttons. Here is how to do that:
1. Hold the wall pushbutton for 11 sec so that dimmer can enter programming mode. After those 11 sec, LED will start to blink fast, and light will dimm to third (3.) level. Now you have 11 sec to complete the programming sequence:
2. Press the first button on your remote that will increase light level or turn on the light when it is turned off (ON/UP)
3. Press the second button on your remote that will be used to decrease the light level (DOWN)
4. Press the third button that will be used for activating/deactivating sleep mode (SLEEP)
5. Finally, press the fourth button that will be used to turn off light completely (OFF)
During programming, both the light bulb and LED will blink to confirm IR code reception. If your remote control does not have all 4 buttons that you can use, you can repeat previous button but that will cancel out some features. For example, if your remote has only two buttons (A and B), and if during programming you press: A A A B, that means that key A will be used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to completely turn off the light. If you choose combination A B B B, it means that the key A will be again used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to decrease light level (it will also turn the light off completely in 10 button presses - until zero level).
Programming notice: If during programming, you notice that LED blinks even when you don't press any buttons on your remote control, it is probably because you used TSOP11xx instead of TSOP17xx receiver module. In that case, you will probably not be able to program your dimmer properly.
If you are not satisfied with your choice of remote controller buttons, you can repeat the learning procedure as much as you like.
If you are planning to use your TV's remote controller, you should probably choose those teletext buttons: red, green, yellow and blue to avoid, for example, switching channels when operating the dimmer.
Sleep timer
Sleep timer can be activated by a bit longer wall-pushbutton press, more than 1.8 sec to be precise, or by pressing the appropriate button on the remote controller. Sleep timer cancellation is accomplished just like the activation. It is possible to increase/decrease the light level when sleep timer is active. Dimmer will automatically set the light level to six (6) when entering the sleep mode, but only if previous level was greater than 6.
Important notice: This device is connected to mains power line, so it requires a lot of respect. If you are not sure in what you are doing, you better leave the installation part to the experienced electrician.
Dimmer in operation:
Note: Dimmer works better with TIC206 rather than TIC216!
Author (sent by): Trax
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Date: 07-02-2009
Lokalna verzija ove stranice: IR dimmer svjetla v1
Ralf, dimmer can NOT drive a conventional wire wound transformer used for low voltage halogen
lamps!
IP: n/a
@Marcelo Souza: I'd say you were just lucky with burning the calibration parameter from the
another 629. The instruction to burn has to be RETLW nn where every 629 has it's own nn. If
everything works fine, the parameters of the two 629s luckily weren't too different. (Now
everything looks ok. :) I've read another brandNew 629, and took the Calib.Value, merged it on
your code,and burned it back...)
IP: n/a
@trax: Nije mi bas ovo jasno kad kazes: 'Well, you don't have to throw it in the trash. There
is a way to figure out that calibration value, but you must google for it.'. Byte za
kalibraciju je kod naredbe RETLW nn gdje je nn broj specifican za upravo taj mikrokontroler. Da
li to znaci da postoji nacin za procitati tu vrijednost cak i kada se jednom greskom prebrise?
PS
Poslao sam ti mail...
IP: n/a
hello trax,
very interesting that light dimmer especially that 120V 60Hz version. So far I have two
questions: Can that dimmer drives a conventional wire wound transformer used for low voltage
halogen lamps? ...and second question: Can anybody sell programmed PIC's to me (10pcs.) - I
have no experience in programming them...
Thanks so far...
IP: 195.212.82.66
Hello, there is no source code and you can't drive the fluorescent lamps :)
IP: n/a
Hi Trax.
First of all, great project.
I am thinking to build it with some smaller changes.
I have a couple of questions before I proceed with this IR Light Dimmer:
1. Is the asm file available?
(I need it only for 220V/50Hz) :o)
2. Can I attach a fluorescent lamp instead of a resistive bulb ? (as I see the schematic, it
will only be able to drive resistive loads.)
IP: 85.204.185.200
Ok. I am a bit frustated now... I've dedicated all my saturday and part of sunday, to build my
PCB, buy all the pieces, burned the PIC correctly, and assembly everything, and put on the AC
(110v/60Hz). Simply nothing happened. :( Not even exploded. (lol). Nothing get warm, the Bulb
don't started up, the led don't blink, nothing. Very strange. I will replace the PIC now, and
re-check everything...Wish me luck. :)
IP: 189.62.107.252
I saw the PCD pictures of your circuit mouted, and saw that the correct is the RESISTOR R5
directly to the PIC pin2. thx
IP: 189.62.107.252
Hi Trax ! I am assembling the circuit parts right now and soldering... I have another doubt...
Look at the PIC Pin 2. You have a LED directly to it on the Schematics, but on the PCB there's
the "R5" Resistor on the PIN2 and then on the LEDa (Anode). Wich one is the right ?
IP: 189.62.107.252
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